Post by Candyman on Oct 8, 2008 7:18:52 GMT -8
Here are a few tips to keep in mind as you plan your amp
installation.
Finding the right spot
An amp can be securely installed with just a few screws. But since amps can be sensitive to electrical and motor noise and because interference from the amp may affect your radio reception, try to mount it at least 3 feet away from the receiver. Good locations include:
In the trunk or hatch area
Pros: Lots of room for large amps. Near the rear speakers or sub enclosure.
Cons: You sacrifice some cargo space. Longer wires and patch cords required.
Note: When working inside the trunk, tape over the latch, so you won't become trapped inside accidentally.
Under a seat
Pros: Closer to the receiver, so you can use shorter patch cords and signal cables. Closer to the front speakers, so running wire to them will be easier. No cargo space sacrificed.
Cons: You may have to remove the seat to do the installation (Warning: removing your seat could deactivate your vehicle's SRS system). Larger amps won't fit.
SRS stands for Supplemental Restraint System, but may also be identified as "SIR" or simply "Airbag."
In certain vehicles, certain steps you may choose to take when installing car audio, video, or performance gear can deactivate your vehicle's SRS system. If any or a portion of your SRS system has been disabled and you get into an accident, you will not be protected by the system, which may lead to increased risk of serious personal injury and/or death.
Following a few simple rules, can help you avoid deactivating your vehicle's SRS system:
1. Before attempting your installation, please refer to your vehicle's Owner's Manual and/or call your dealer to determine if the steps called for in the installation of your gear may disable or trigger the SRS system in your vehicle.
Note: Since 1989, airbags have been mandatory in passenger vehicles in the U.S. However, some vehicles manufactured before that time offered airbags as an option. Please check your vehicle's Owner's Manual and/or call your dealer if you're unsure whether your vehicle has airbags.
2. The first step of any car audio/video installation is to disconnect the negative post of your vehicle's battery.
Airbags can still deploy after the vehicle's battery has been disconnected, take the same precautions that you would take if the negative post was not disconnected.
3. DO NOT disconnect any airbag harnesses in the vehicle, as it could disable the airbag system and cause serious personal injury and/or death. These harnesses are typically wrapped in a bright yellow conduit or tape.
Note: Airbags and their wiring can be found in many locations in modern vehicles. Possible airbag locations include, but are not limited to:
i. Dash
ii. Doors
iii. Seats
iv. Pillars
v. Roofline
4. If, during the course of your installation, the airbag light is triggered, the system must be reset by a qualified technician. Immediately contact your local dealer for details prior to driving the vehicle. Most dealers charge one hour of labor for this service.
5. If you removed the seats, seatbelts, or headrests, make sure they are secured to manufacturer's specifications when installation is complete.
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Keeping your amp cool
Something else to consider when choosing a mounting spot: Amplifiers produce heat, and the heat must be dissipated efficiently. The amp's cooling fins absorb heat and radiate it into the surrounding air. For the cooling fins to operate efficiently, they need a few inches of air space around them. When mounting the amp on a side wall, try to position it so that the slots in the cooling fins are vertical.
Amps should not be mounted on the bottom of a rear deck with the fins facing down because the heat will radiate back up into the amp. Leave yourself enough room on either side of the amp to make all the wire connections and adjust the controls. If you have a subwoofer box in your vehicle, you can mount the amp on the outside of the box.
If you are mounting the amp to the vehicle's floor, check beneath the car to be sure your screws won't puncture a brake or gas line.
Amplifier Wiring Kits
Amplifier wiring kits contain power and ground cable, a thin piece of wire for the turn-on lead, a fuse or circuit breaker, and all the connectors you need. The main power lead should be thick, since it draws power directly from the positive battery terminal. An in-line fuse or circuit breaker installed near the battery is a must. Without one, an accidental short circuit could pose a fire hazard and damage your amp.
Select the wire (10-, 8-, 4-, 2-, or 1/0-gauge) that's appropriate for your installation, depending on the length of wire you want to use, the power of your amplifiers, and how you plan to use them. For more information, check our cable gauge selection chart. Make sure that the fuse rating of your amplifier does not exceed the rating of the fuse that's included with your wiring kit — if so, you'll need to buy a larger fuse.
No preamp outputs on your receiver?
Most aftermarket receivers provide preamp output from RCA jacks. In this case, an RCA patch cable carries the signal from the receiver to the amp. If your receiver does not have preamp outputs, many amplifiers feature speaker-level inputs, which have built-in converters which step the speaker-level signal down to a preamp-level signal acceptable to the amp.
You can access the speaker-level signal by stripping a small section of your vehicle's right and left speaker wires, and splicing in wires that lead to your amp (similar to splicing into your receiver's turn on wire — see the Amplifier Installation Guide). Note: Tapping into speaker wires in this manner does not affect the performance of your speakers.
If your amp doesn't have speaker-level inputs, an effective and inexpensive line output converter will help you step the speaker-level signal down to preamp level. Then run an RCA patch cord from the converter to the amplifier. Make sure the patch cords supplying the musical signal to the amplifier are kept well away from potential sources of noise, such as brake light wires or rear window defroster wires.
Thanks for reading.
Candyman
installation.
Finding the right spot
An amp can be securely installed with just a few screws. But since amps can be sensitive to electrical and motor noise and because interference from the amp may affect your radio reception, try to mount it at least 3 feet away from the receiver. Good locations include:
In the trunk or hatch area
Pros: Lots of room for large amps. Near the rear speakers or sub enclosure.
Cons: You sacrifice some cargo space. Longer wires and patch cords required.
Note: When working inside the trunk, tape over the latch, so you won't become trapped inside accidentally.
Under a seat
Pros: Closer to the receiver, so you can use shorter patch cords and signal cables. Closer to the front speakers, so running wire to them will be easier. No cargo space sacrificed.
Cons: You may have to remove the seat to do the installation (Warning: removing your seat could deactivate your vehicle's SRS system). Larger amps won't fit.
SRS stands for Supplemental Restraint System, but may also be identified as "SIR" or simply "Airbag."
In certain vehicles, certain steps you may choose to take when installing car audio, video, or performance gear can deactivate your vehicle's SRS system. If any or a portion of your SRS system has been disabled and you get into an accident, you will not be protected by the system, which may lead to increased risk of serious personal injury and/or death.
Following a few simple rules, can help you avoid deactivating your vehicle's SRS system:
1. Before attempting your installation, please refer to your vehicle's Owner's Manual and/or call your dealer to determine if the steps called for in the installation of your gear may disable or trigger the SRS system in your vehicle.
Note: Since 1989, airbags have been mandatory in passenger vehicles in the U.S. However, some vehicles manufactured before that time offered airbags as an option. Please check your vehicle's Owner's Manual and/or call your dealer if you're unsure whether your vehicle has airbags.
2. The first step of any car audio/video installation is to disconnect the negative post of your vehicle's battery.
Airbags can still deploy after the vehicle's battery has been disconnected, take the same precautions that you would take if the negative post was not disconnected.
3. DO NOT disconnect any airbag harnesses in the vehicle, as it could disable the airbag system and cause serious personal injury and/or death. These harnesses are typically wrapped in a bright yellow conduit or tape.
Note: Airbags and their wiring can be found in many locations in modern vehicles. Possible airbag locations include, but are not limited to:
i. Dash
ii. Doors
iii. Seats
iv. Pillars
v. Roofline
4. If, during the course of your installation, the airbag light is triggered, the system must be reset by a qualified technician. Immediately contact your local dealer for details prior to driving the vehicle. Most dealers charge one hour of labor for this service.
5. If you removed the seats, seatbelts, or headrests, make sure they are secured to manufacturer's specifications when installation is complete.
[/color]
Keeping your amp cool
Something else to consider when choosing a mounting spot: Amplifiers produce heat, and the heat must be dissipated efficiently. The amp's cooling fins absorb heat and radiate it into the surrounding air. For the cooling fins to operate efficiently, they need a few inches of air space around them. When mounting the amp on a side wall, try to position it so that the slots in the cooling fins are vertical.
Amps should not be mounted on the bottom of a rear deck with the fins facing down because the heat will radiate back up into the amp. Leave yourself enough room on either side of the amp to make all the wire connections and adjust the controls. If you have a subwoofer box in your vehicle, you can mount the amp on the outside of the box.
If you are mounting the amp to the vehicle's floor, check beneath the car to be sure your screws won't puncture a brake or gas line.
Amplifier Wiring Kits
Amplifier wiring kits contain power and ground cable, a thin piece of wire for the turn-on lead, a fuse or circuit breaker, and all the connectors you need. The main power lead should be thick, since it draws power directly from the positive battery terminal. An in-line fuse or circuit breaker installed near the battery is a must. Without one, an accidental short circuit could pose a fire hazard and damage your amp.
Select the wire (10-, 8-, 4-, 2-, or 1/0-gauge) that's appropriate for your installation, depending on the length of wire you want to use, the power of your amplifiers, and how you plan to use them. For more information, check our cable gauge selection chart. Make sure that the fuse rating of your amplifier does not exceed the rating of the fuse that's included with your wiring kit — if so, you'll need to buy a larger fuse.
No preamp outputs on your receiver?
Most aftermarket receivers provide preamp output from RCA jacks. In this case, an RCA patch cable carries the signal from the receiver to the amp. If your receiver does not have preamp outputs, many amplifiers feature speaker-level inputs, which have built-in converters which step the speaker-level signal down to a preamp-level signal acceptable to the amp.
You can access the speaker-level signal by stripping a small section of your vehicle's right and left speaker wires, and splicing in wires that lead to your amp (similar to splicing into your receiver's turn on wire — see the Amplifier Installation Guide). Note: Tapping into speaker wires in this manner does not affect the performance of your speakers.
If your amp doesn't have speaker-level inputs, an effective and inexpensive line output converter will help you step the speaker-level signal down to preamp level. Then run an RCA patch cord from the converter to the amplifier. Make sure the patch cords supplying the musical signal to the amplifier are kept well away from potential sources of noise, such as brake light wires or rear window defroster wires.
Thanks for reading.
Candyman
